February 2002
|
February 2002 |
32-01.517 N
081-02.846 W
Thunderbolt (Savannah), Georgia
Palmer Johnson Marina
February 28, 2002
Our moods, ambitions, and energy levels vary with the seasons and with the weather. When temperatures are cold (as low as 21 the last two nights), we retire early, get up late, move slowly, and look for excuses not to complete pending tasks. Occasionally, we never leave the boat. because our personal internal electrical systems do not provide the get up and go promised by Wheaties. On other days, we come roaring out of the gate, to meet every challenge, and to accomplish every task.
We anticipated that January-March would be dreary. We knew it would
be a kind of life not depicted on the covers of sailing magazines.
We knew that we would stay long periods in one place. We did not
know, however, that our lives would be enriched by personal visits, such
as by Indianapolis friends Jack and Pat Nick, and we had no way of anticipating
that son Alex would spend so much time with us, giving us an unprecedented
opportunity to know him, and to see him grow.
The cultural life of Savannah also has enriched our lives. The
Telfair Museum has 15 or 20 spectacular paintings, each worth the price
of admission. It also is the home of The Bird Girl, first depicted
on the cover of the book, "Midnight in The Garden of Good and Evil."
Visitors can walk within inches of this delightful depiction of the balance
of life. Tonight, The Red Army Chorus & Dance Ensemble gave us
two hours of joyful music and exuberant dancing (including polkas, and
the stooped kick steps displayed in "Fidler on The Roof" after Trevya makes
a deal for his daughter to marry).
Though docked, the demands of sailing life never leave us. We have suffered the last few days over a decision about how and when to acquire additional electrical power generation to keep up our batteries on passages or at anchor. Today, we decided to install a wind generator. At the same time, we are debating whether to install a motor-driven generator and/or water maker. Either or both would give us additional comfort, but they are expensive, and, more important, require more of our personal time to maintain. Everything is a trade off. Nothing is simple. That is the challenge.
February 22, 2002
With new friends such as Bill and Kathy Smullen who introduced us to The Landings and to Shyler's river front restaurant, with the wonderful Savannah Irish Festival at which we met folk singer Cathie Ryan, with a calm two-mile walk to and through the Bonaventure Cemetery where we paid our respects to Johnny Mercer and imagined scenes from "Midnight In The Garden of Good and Evil," with using our free time to read the book and to see the movie, as well as to see other movies of the south, such as "Driving Miss Daisy," "The Legend of Bagger Vance" and "Gone With the Wind," with all this our hearts have been captured by Savannah, and we will stay another two weeks, and I cannot keep this sentencing going any longer.
Yesterday, John went up the mast to install two sheaves below the starboard
lower spreader, thereby providing a better halyard system to support the
radar reflector. Was he proud? Darn Right! First time
up, and he did not drop anything. An achievement. Self sufficiency
is just around the corner. Meanwhile, Chichi continued to sew covers
and other items for the interior of Pachamama, while Alex cleaned the deck,
tightened turnbuckles, searched for a leak in Pachi (the dinghy), and removed
rust. We ordered a wind power generator to reduce engine use, especially
on passages. Pending jobs are to varnish grab rails, to install a
new (longer) main halyard, to decide whether to install a water maker,
and to prepare for future travels.
February 15, 2002
James Oglethorpe, supported by a boat load of 117 debtors, founded Savannah in 1733. Out of respect for the history and beauty of the city, as well as for the practical needs of his troops, General Sherman did not destroy the city. Instead, he gave it as a present to President Lincoln (while his troops bivouacked in the local cemetery, destroying and defacing head stones.)
Robert Zemekis filmed parts of "Forest Gump" here. Famous scenes include the falling feather, and the park bench on which Forest tells his story to astonished listeners. The Welcome Center/history museum preserves this bench. Clint Eastwood filmed "Midnight in The Garden of Good and Evil" in Savannah. The movie made famous a statue of "The Bird Girl" that appears in the museum. Small replicas of this work are available everywhere in town. Kevin Spacey, star of the movie, gave $200,000 toward renovation of the Lucas Theatre, a venue not unlike The Murat in Indianapolis. We toured The Lucas yesterday. Today, over 40 Savannah stage workers will help to load "Titanic," that starts tonight for three nights.
Chichi returned from Bolivia Monday night. Though tired from a long trip, she was all set to see Savannah Tuesday morning. John and Al did well together alone, but a woman's touch adds to the richness of any travel experience.
Pachamama continues to call for attention. She needs protective metal under the bow sprit, a more effective system of suspension of the radar reflector (requiring a trip up the mast to the first spreader), a new and longer main halyard, a new block and longer line for the dinghy motor crane, refitting of a sail batten that has come free at the leach, and an hour or two of rust removal from stanchions, shackles, bimini/dodger supports, and one corner of the stove.
Fine experiences in Savannah:
1. The Museum of Ships of The Sea, the finest collection of models we have seen, including military and merchant vessels affiliated with Savannah, as well as The Titanic.
2. The live concert by Johnny Mathis, and The Savannah Symphony Orchestra. (He performed well, though in pain from recent back surgery.)
3. The bus culture: everyone talks to everyone. During approximately 15 days here, we took at least 50 different buses, each featuring a colorful driver always engaged in conversations with passengers at the front.
4. The friendly culture: In no other city have we felt so at home. The reason is that people here look you in the eye, and say hello. Everyone does it (except the tourists, of course.)
February 8, 2002
"Down days in Savannah"
Rain and 26 degree evenings restricted John and Al from seeing Savannah, but we did find the most interesting tourist attraction: a criminal trial.
While walking the historic district, we passed The Chatham County Courthouse,
asked if a trial were in progress, and found ourselves watching the plight
of a young woman charged with disobeying a police officer. With cars
backed up in all directions, the officer denied the defendant the right
to drive her automobile on to the host island of Orange Crush, an annual
event. The young woman, holding motel space on the island, protested,
became angered, and found herself arrested.
We listened to legal argument, two witnesses, closing arguments, and
the charge to the jury, for over three hours, but we did not stay
to hear the jury's decision.
At the most superficial, a trial is fine entertainment. At the most profound, it is an example of how our criminal system, thousands of times each day, resolves the conflicting needs of a society that seeks peace among its citizens and the inevitable emotions of individuals.
Whenever time permits, a stop at the local courthouse usually results in an important memory. It helps if the visit is voluntary!
------
February 2, 2002
Chichi having left for a two week visit to Bolivia, son Alexander and John sailed from Jekyll Island, Ga., to Savannah.
As reported in the previous log entry, Jekyll Island, and especially the personnel of the Jekyll Island Harbor Marina, gained a deep and long-lasting portion of our hearts. The service was terrific. We made fine new friends. By land or water, we recommend Jekyll Island.
To arrive at Thunderbolt during daylight required a night departure. Alex and I waited three nights before we left, about 9 p.m. on January 31. Night sailing in marked waterways and harbors always is tense. Using about half power and four eyes, we wound our way out to sea through the St. Simon Inlet, turned north east beyond marker 6, put up the main and genoa, and relaxed for seven hours, with John and Al trading turns in the cockpit. Most of the trip we had a light south wind (right on the stern), that did little good. We pulled in the genoa after a half hour or so, but left up the main to reduce the rolling effects of a light sea with low swells from the east. We were in and out of fog all night, but generally had a good view of a 3/4 moon and the big dipper.
The entrance to Thunderbolt starts at Wassaw Sound, sea buoy R2W. Though radar indicated this marker was only 200 feet from us, we could not see it. We could not see anything. Meanwhile, a radio call to the marina produced a report, "all is clear here; we have a beautiful day." At anchor in 35 feet, we waited and waited. At high tide, I decided to enter the sound using an electronic chart and radar. We approached with apprehension, because we had been told that boats go aground in this area on uncharted shoals. So, we moved slowly, never experiencing depths less than 15 feet. What a relief! Then, on entering the sound, we left the fog bank, and had unlimited visibility for the rest of our trip, up The Wilmington River, to Thunderbolt.
We plan two weeks here, and many good times.