26-45.617N
077-20.092W
Anchored
Settlement of New Plymouth
Green Turtle Cay
Republic of The Bahamas
Wednesday, June 30 (Chichi's Birthday)
The author of these chronicles, John, with advice and consent from Chichi,
has a new mood regarding this literary effort, a more quiet, less original
view, he thinks, probably because we are less than two weeks away from the
end of Chapter One. Our return to Ft. Lauderdale marks the completion
of a giant circle, more than 7000 miles in circumference. Our thoughts
are dominated by a certain nostalgia, and a certain doubt or anxiety about
our future maritime travels. What is next? We do not know.
But, the recent week has been fun. At Guana, we went to Nippers, the
most famous beach side bar in these marvelous islands. It sits on a
hill above a beach, with good music, libation and food, especially the Sunday
pig roast of which we partook.
There we found an original CD of Bahamian music, a Buffet-like performance,
with fun and satire. Earlier that day, we shared church services with
other cruisers at The Gospel church, the only church on the island, and a
welcoming one indeed.
Next day, Monday, we dove the Fowl Cay area. Two dives, shallow, but
fun, in company with 12 others, including snorkelers, all under the watchful
eye of Troy, the boss of Dive Guana.
On arrival here, yesterday, we called Molly and Chuck (motor vessel Spoof),
whom we originally met at Warderick Wells. Time on their porch, and
dinner at McIntosh, produced a fine evening. Today, Chichi elected
to spend most of her time on the beach, but not before a frustrating and
uncomfortable attempt to find a reef. The bounce of the dinghy over
30 minutes, each way, took the snorkeling desire out of us.
26-40.021N
077-07.226W
Anchored
Fishers Bay, Great Guana Cay
Abacos
Republic of The Bahamas
And now, ladies and gentlemen, The Royal Bahamian Police Marching Band .
. .
and we see 30 minutes of the most elegant, studied, complicated, musical,
memorized, perfectly executed performance of a military marching band. Having
performed two weeks ago on Good Morning America, and planning a trip to Rhode
Island, with recognition from places all over the world, we felt privileged
to see this performance, on our last night in Marsh Harbour, at a festival
of food and entertainment, just for us and several hundred cruisers and visitors.
Our dinghy took us to Marsh Harbour, or, more accurately, the Mercury 15
horse did the job. We had not planned to visit Marsha Harbour, but,
after a few hours near Hope Town, our dinghy motor proved powerless. A
radio call to Patty and Bob gave us hope: National Marine in Marsh Harbour.
They put the power back, by cleaning the fuel and carburetor. And
we spent five days there. (Patty and Bob are transplanted locals who run
the daily cruisers' net, an hour-long celebration of weather, headlines, local
business promotions, and general questions.)
One day, by ferry, we went back to Hope Town, for good food and a good view
from atop the Hope Town Light House, perhaps the last fully manned light house
in North America, visible 15 miles. Most of our time, however, was
spent snorkeling, eating, shopping, interneting, in Marsh Harbour. Surprisingly
few new friends this time, but Mike and Barbara aboard Evening Star gave us
rest during the long row from the dock to the boat (while the motor was being
fixed), and we lateri nvited them for Guy Punches. Next day, they towed is
back to the dock, saving John great amounts of semi permanent muscle pain.
She is from Barbados, he from California, where he learned to pilot Lears,
including trips for Indianapolis' Steve Hilbert and Lou Ferraro, names well
known to students of Indianapolis business.
25-30.846N
076-50.775W
Anchored
Royal Island, Near Spanish Wells, Near Eleuthera
Republic of The Bahamas
Thursday, June 17
What is Nassau?
Nassau is a wine merchant who locks her doors and personally takes our
order to the boat, using her dolly.
It is a bus driver, at the end of his business day, who, instead of referring
us to a connecting bus, takes us directly to the front door of our destination,
a movie theater.
Nassau is the young man, a bagger, who takes our order to the boat.
Nassau is Nick and Carolyn, stalwarts of the cruising community, residents
here for 40 years, who run the daily net, and are leaders of BASRA, the
Bahamian air sea rescue service.
Atlantis is Nassau. This is the largest hotel we have seen. A
casino, resort, aquarium and history museum, now adding on, to make a total
investment of over $ 2 billion.
It is the dealer who helps us to play.
Ardestra is part of Nassau, a wonderful zoological enterprise, where parakeets
land on the arm to feed, and flamingoes march to the orders of their master.
Nassau is alive.
After spending a night at anchor off Allen's Kay in The Exumas, we sailed
7 hours to Rose Island, an anchorage four miles outside Nassau Harbor. The
next day we went to Nassau Yacht Haven Marina, and work began: changing
oil, changing filters, provisioning, tightening the alternator belt. Meals
at The Crocodile and The Poop Deck were excellent, and we enjoyed "The Stepford
Wives," at the mall. We lost perhaps $50 at The Atlantis, the price
of participating in one of life's more intriguing exercises, the guaranteed
loss.
Tuesday's trip here was uneventful, though challenging, with our nose on
the wind. That night, neighbor boats invited us to sundowner, and
yesterday we toured nearby ruins. Our plan had been to go the The
Abacos today, but last night we said "let's take a water taxis to Spanish
Wells. This morning, the quoted fare of $120 dampened our interest.
We will have another "day aboard," a movie, good food, maybe friends.
We'll see. Tomorrow: Little Harbour, in The Abacos.
24-23.812N
076-37.938W
Moored
Exuma National Park
Warderick Wells Cay
Exumas, Republic of The Bahamas
Sunday, June 6
We have wondered which of our friends and family might enjoy The Exumas
as much as we have. While we are making waves from a boat, many visitors
here arrive by air, or by mail boat from Nassau. We hear that one-way
fares from Ft. Lauderdale to Staniel Cay are about $250, and the weekly
mail boat from Nassau is $50. Modest cottages are available at U.S.
resort rates, something over $100 per might, but the area has a charm, isolation
and beauty unknown in the Club Meds and Sheratons of the world. The
cottages at The Staniel Cay Yacht Club face a beautiful ocean beach, and
the room rate includes unlimited use of a personal Boston Whaler, which
is a runabout with 15 horses. A popular place to run to
is Thunderball Groto, where the movie was filmed. Having snorkeled
there, Chichi and I are anxious to again see the movie. Our memory
is that the atomic bomb was stored in the cave, that Largo was killed there,
and that James and his girl were pulled from the water on a dinghy, attached
to a balloon, picked off by an airplane. Was the song "No One Does
It Better?"
We stayed two nights off Cave Cay, then motor sailed to a point well
off Compass Cay for a rolly night at anchor. Next day we went on
to Staniel Cay, anchoring with a dozen other yachts. Beer, rums punch
(or is it rum punches?), and good food at the Yacht Club gave us enjoyment,
as did access to the internet at the bar. We felt very welcome at The
Baptist Church, and at the noon beach cook out Monday.
The Exuma National Park is special, completely protected. No fishing,
take nothing, leave nothing. This is the place I would go if I were
a fish, for I would be safe from every human predator. Perhaps that
is why the snorkeling is so good. The waters are clear, with Bahamas
style colors, the deep blues, greens and browns that stagger the eye. Park
headquarters is on Warderick Wells Cay. Mooring is $30 a night, $20
if you join The Bahamas National Trust. All visitors here enjoy the
same pass times, giving good opportunities to meet new friends. For
example, we met Chuck and Molly on "Spoof." They are residents of
Green Turtle Cay in The Abacos. If we make it up there before July
10, when they leave for Sarasota, we will see them again. Here we
hiked the well marked trails, snorkeled, shared a happy hour with cruisers,
and relaxed. We were going to leave today, but Chris Parker (The Caribbean
Weather Center) says "it's really ugly out there," so we will stay another
day, change engine fluids, bake bread, have a Sunday steak, and hope to
leave tomorrow for Allen Cay, then to Nassau after a one day layover. Stay
tuned.