March 2003
 

14-29.267N
061-04.881W

Anchored
Petite Anse D'Arlet
Martinique

Sunday, March 30

After motoring here on Thursday, we snorkled, toured the small town, had two good lunches at an outdoor cafe northwest of the river, and relaxed, with several hours of boredom and nothingness, which we have come to expect as part of our lives, especially during the hot hours of 1 to 4:30 p.m.  Tomorrow, we sail to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.

At both lunches, we conversed with our table neighbors.  The first was a couple from Paris.  She is a Paris fashion representative who makes frequent trips to New York, and he is, ooops, I forgot.  For them, Martinique is a wonderful vacation spot.  Today, we conversed with two French military personnel on assignment to Ft. du France.  He is a finance specialist, and she a computer specialist.  We tried to engage them in a conversation about the war in Iraq, but they preferred to talk about their current experiences, and about the assistance of France in The American Revolution.  The waiter owner of the cafe reminded us of Roberto Binini.

14-27.935N
060-52.425W

Docked
Marin Yacht Harbor
Martinique

Tuesday, March 25

Last weekend we first decided to sail north from Martinique, effectively turning us back to The United States, probably by way of Puerto Rico, Hispanola, and the other big island.  That night, we could not sleep, and Chichi articulated her feelings the next morning.  She said that turning back now would leave us feeling incomplete, because our goal had been to see all the major Caribbean islands, down to Trinidad, and that turning back now seemed to her like "the beginning of the end."  

Sailing decisions never are simple, and can be emotional.  John, at first, was convinced that we will not be content going to Trinidad, because the hurricane season might force us to stay there for a long period, perhaps six months, and he envisioned boredom and frustration.  The other side of the coin is that we could fly home for a time, but, then, that forces us to leave the boat, and boats always decay during storage.  What to do.  What to do.  John was very upset over the decision, and the doubt.  After our sleepless night, we changed the decision, and we will go to Trinidad, accepting whatever future situation is presented to us.  

The above paragraphs do not convey the difficulty of making such decisions.  Imagine your feelings if you changed the location of your home every few days and weeks.  Chichi rides with these decisions very well, but John feels them in the stomach.  

A side story is that we told our friends, The Schweitzers, that we are headed home.  They had been trying to convince us to keep up with them, perhaps spending several weeks together in The Grenadines, including some night passages as partners.  When they left for St. Lucia, we felt then that we might not see them again for a long time.  This caused sadness for all four of us.  

We told The Schweitzers on the SSB Monday morning, and everyone seems happy.  


Thursday, March 20

Great News Today:  Chico was accepted at The Indiana University School of Medicine.

*****

The boiling lake of Dominica is the largest boiling crater lake in the world.  Beautiful to behold, but hard to reach.  Over three hours of arduous hiking, in each direction, leaving us void of energy.   We considered turning back several times, but ego kept us going, and we are proud.  

The lake is one of those "I can't believe it" natural wonders.  It steams, and boils, boils and steams, all emanating from a crater perhaps 800 feet below our ridge.
The diameter could be, maybe, 5 American football fields.  To get there, we climbed 1500 feet from where the tax left us, itself about 2000 feet above sea level.  We traversed mud, both hot and cold streams, and a desolate plain where we first sensed the smell of sulfur.

Our companions were Marianne and Judy, physical therapists from Belgium, on a one year tour with a hospital near St. Anne, Martinique.  Our guide was Ken, a descendant of the Caribs, and a true student.  He spoke fluent French with the girls, excellent English with us, flowing Patwa with the natives, and who knows what else.  He is an official, certified Dominican guide, meaning he has taken courses, some as far away was Mt. Washington, Maine.  His powerful personal story was about Hurricane David that left Dominica without resources for three years after 1979.  His house "exploded;" his wife and mother were hospitalized six weeks in Barbados.  For the three years, the island depended 100 % on foreign assistance from other islands, France, and, of course, The U.S.

Upon our return that night to the Hotel Fort Young (where the concierge arranged our trip), we had dinner, then set off in the dinghy for Pachamama.  But, we could not find her.  Oh well, no big deal.  We just missed her on the first pass, but found her on the second, about 45 minutes later.  Tension?  You bet.
We were moored south of The Anchorage Hotel, which is south of Roseau, the capital of Dominica.  

During our trip from Portsmouth to Roseau, we noticed that other similarly rigged boats were going faster.  Why?  Why?  Why?  We learned why.  Pachi, our dinghy, turned over, and was trailing behind us upside down, creating drag.  We could not turn her.  We crossed our fingers that she would hold on tight. She did not.  The painter broke, and we turned to save our dear friend.  We came up on the windward side, drifted down on her, and Chichi attached a line, with incredible nerve and dexterity.  Then we resumed our trip at three knots.

Once a week since Sint Maarten we have talked to Jochen and Anna Schweitzer, aboard Germania, true friends that we met back off The Delaware River.
They crossed to Bermuda and Sint Maarten with us.  When we talked to them from Roseau, they said they were waiting for us in St. Anne, Martinique.  We met them again Monday night, right here, after a short trip from Dominica with a one night stop at St. Pierre.  Since then, we have eaten on their boat, shared punch on our boat, and a full dinner on our boat last night.  These are our favorite people from the sailing experience.  Now, they want us to follow them to The Grenadines, but we are discussing a plan to turn back north, then to The U.S. by June.  Stay tuned.  We must make this decision in a couple of days.

Work here at the marina includes polishing all the stainless, locating an air leak in our fresh water plumbing system, checking a noise in the drive shaft, fixing a light near the binnacle, general cleaning, purchasing supplies, and getting Pachi back in order after almost four continuous weeks unnatched to a dock.


15-34.809N
061-27.743W

At Anchor
Portsmouth
Commonwealth of Dominica

March 6

Here we first encountered "boat boys," or "boat vendors" who seek out arrivals several miles out, and accompany boats to anchor.  These are colorful fellows, with bright boats, and wild names, such as "Providence," "Sea Bird," and "Alex of Arabia."  Our fellow is Jeffrey, aboard Sea Bird.  He helped us through customs, doing laundry, and taking in garbage.  He also arranged for his friend Jefferson to take us up The Indian River, a wonderful trip, though less than a mile long. Jefferson positions himself like a Venetian gondolier, and lectures on everything seen.  He knows the common names of species, as well as the Latin names.  Nicely done.

We went to two church services on Sunday.  The first was a two-hour mass that completely captivated John.  I liked the rollicking Caribbean music, and the priest was a real preacher who spoke about human circumstances with down to earth, humorous references.  He was great.  After coffee, we headed back to the boat, only to find another church service with rollicking music.  With this enthusiastic music all around, you do not know whether to be pious, or to dance your feet off.  The leaders of this service were three gals singing close harmony; the lead reminded us of Janet Jackson.

The people of Dominica are the most openly friendly we have encountered so far.  They greet everyone, on every corner, in every  bus, in every restaurant.  They love life, and love their island.  Our time here has been spent hiking the Carib national park, and taking a combination of buses and trucks to The Carib Territory, to which the original Caribs were relegated by the ever growing and every expanding European populations.

We arrived Thursday, and we will leave tomorrow, Wednesday, for Roseau, 18 miles south, the capital of Dominica.

JOHN SAW THE GREEN FLASH!  (See commentary below, in the February file, when Chichi first saw The Green Flash.


15-52.010N
061-35.216W

At Anchor
Bourg des Saintes
Iles des Saintes

March 3, 2003

Perhaps the greatest world festival is Carnival, celebrated in dozens of nations, Sunday through Tuesday, 40 days before Easter.  These decidedly boisterous
events, seemingly non religious, are irrevocably tied to the church calendar, and usually begin or end at a church.

The common features of Carnivals are brilliant costumes, floats, and rapid samba like music with continuous dancing.  Some are grand, such as Rio and New Orleans. Others are spectacular, such as Oruro, Bolivia, where participants spend hundreds of dollars to create devil- or monster-like masks, some weighing as much as 15 pounds.  The Oruro tradition combines the Quechua,, Aymara and Inca cultural beliefs, with Catholic rituals at the end.  The Carnival in Santa Cruz, Bolivia, is more like Rio, but not as openly sensual.  Derivations of Carnival have different styles on different dates, such as La Semana Santa in Seville in which groups of 20 persons or more carry heavy  religious images, for miles, surrounded by intense crowds.  In Key West, the carnival is called Fantasy Fest, and is tied to halloween as well as to gay life.  

Carnival in Iles des Saintes started yesterday and continues through tomorrow, Tuesday.  On a world scale, it is a small event.  On an island having barely 2,000 permanent residents, it is relatively huge.  All three of the town's trucks carry mobile sound systems, transmitting continuous dance music, followed by well rehearsed groups of dancers, first children, then adults.  

Yesterday, the parade started at 4.  Three divisions passed by, marching to music from the truck, produced  by two keyboards, a singer, and 10 to 20 percussionists.  Loud?  Of course.  Fun?  You bet.  The parade passes by, then stops, as the first group performs a choreographed routine, guess where?  Yep.  In front of the Catholic church.  For the standing performance, each group clearly had rehearsed for months, but an equal effort went to make the costumes.  Every dancer and musician wore a colorful costume, with hand prepared matching shoes and bonnets.  The cost?  Our guess:  $200 each.  When the last group finished about 6 p.m., each group went to its own club for a night of fun and dancing.  We understand that another parade is tonight at 9 p.m., and the final event tomorrow at 4, undoubtedly ending at midnight, the beginning of Ash Wednesday.

Yesterday at breakfast (bagets and coffee), we met Hubert, who arrived here from Brittany 18 years ago.  He is a fisherman, and world traveler, who laboriously, and successfully, communicates in broken English, with an infectious enthusiasm and twinkle.  We might see more of him later today.

Additional notes:  March 5

Hubert, pronounced oooobear, showed up yesterday.  We were sitting quietly in the cockpit, when we heard "sheshe, sheshe,"  We looked over the stern to see him waiting there, with fins and goggles.  He had swum the some 200 years from shore.  The three of us got in the dinghy, motored to Elet Cabrit (Island of Goats), climbed to the top, toured the old fort, then returned to the beach for an hour of snorkeling.  Great time!

Carnival ended yesterday.  More spectacular music and costumes.  Thoroughly fun.