May 2004
 


23-54.105N
076-16.178W

Anchored
Near Cave Cay Cut
Cave Cay, Republic of The Bahamas

Friday, May 28

Returning May 21 to George Town, after having shared in the graduation of our daughter Laura, celebrating Mother's Day, and enjoying a wonderful surprise visit by Chichi's sister Chona and her children Sergio, Gonzalo, Liliana and Valeria, we prepared the boat to move north, over The Exuma Banks, ultimately to Nassau.

George Town is a boating hub, like Grand Central Station.  At the high season from February through April, as many as 400 boats are anchored there.  We missed the high season by a week or so, but appreciated the tranquility.  We also appreciated "Beach Church," a weekly non-denominational service on Volley Ball Beach, next to The Chat and Chill Restaurant. The atmosphere and camaraderie are unique.  We also appreciated the help of Greg, son of the owner of St. Francis, a mooring service on Stocking Island. Greg is 16, self educated through correspondence, punctual, sensitive and caring.  He watched out boat for three weeks, then helped us to provision and to load water.  We hope that he enjoys the study of Julius Ceaser and algebra as much as we enjoyed working with him and his family.  In a few years, they plan to have a marina, a restaurant and a water delivery boat.

Yesterday, on our way to Cave Cay, we caught another Dorado, but this time, for the first time, we were able to board and clean this fish, having failed to bring two others aboard over the last four months.  On arrival, Chichi prepared a fish dinner, and a soup for lunch today and tomorrow.  (Three days is about the limit for storing fish.)  

The northern Exumas (from George Town to a point about 50 miles south of New Providence where Nassau is located) are a chain of very small islands, similar to The Florida Keys, but smaller, and without an ocean highway.  To the East is Exuma Sound, open ocean and deep.  To the west is The Exuma Banks, the shallow area.  Boats may move between The Banks and The Sound through any of perhaps 15 cuts, of which perhaps five will handle the 6 1/2 foot draft of Pachamama.  We will sail the banks, having been told that they are safe, if a bit costly to the nerves when the depth indicator shows 7 feet or less.  The pattern here is to sail 15 to 30 miles, then anchor and explore.  Unfortunately, we cannot find words to convey the beauty of these waters.  If you will forgive hyperbole, we believe that these are the most beautiful waters we have seen.  The shallow water permits a glorious display of color seen no where else. The  beaches are serene and soft, the water warm and welcoming.  The beaches here beat anything we have experienced or heard from friends about Florida, Cancun, and a host of other places.  For peace and quiet, snorkeling, and reading on the beach, The Bahamas are for you.